Champneys Tring

Opened in 1925, Champneys Tring is a stately home and well-being retreat in the Hertfordshire countryside, and also the Champneys group's flagship property. Follow the long driveway with its glimpses of meadows and countryside until the tall chimneys of the red-bricked Champneys mansion appear above the treetops.

Outside the front entrance is a dramatic, modern fountain. Inside, the decor is modern, cool and elegant with an instantly calming sense of light and space. Most bedrooms are in the south-facing garden wing, a two-storey curved building that encompasses the lawns and gardens, and catches the sun.

The enormous spa stretches over one floor and can be a bit of a maze. Thankfully, staff are on hand to guide you, or you can make good use of the map you receive at reception.

Everything you could wish for in a spa is on offer at Champneys Tring: a 25-metre pool, a well-equipped gym, two activity studios and a host of thermal experiences.

The large outdoor whirlpool is a must, with its sunshade to reduce glare. Head back indoors for the steam room, sauna and another indoor whirlpool, all spacious and warm on our visit. Brave the cold plunge pool if you overheat.

A separate area houses a large thalassotherapy pool which has a glass wall overlooking the grounds and a wall of slate with a soothing waterfall running down it. Here, the water is enriched with minerals to nourish the skin.

The Marine and Wellness Spa is decorated in white and silver with pale blue furnishings, and has its own reception area. Book in for a guided wellness "journey", a combination of treatments designed to de-stress, detox, slim or rejuvenate. Journeys last two-and-a-half hours and cost from £125.

You'll know you've reached one of several quiet areas as soon as you read the word "Shhh!" Curl up in hanging egg chairs or climb onto a water bed and be lulled to sleep. 

The surrounding 170 acres of gardens and woodland keep Champneys Tring peaceful and quiet, and provide the opportunity for a countryside stroll. Comfortable recliners and several relaxation cabins are tucked away around the grounds, meaning you can hide away from the world -- if just for an afternoon.

We were booked in for the Premier Package which began with a consultation with two senior therapists in the bright treatment reception area.

The Champneys Hot Poultice Massage (80 minutes, £90) was a highlight, as I have enjoyed this treatment before in India. At Champneys, the treatment was much gentler and more relaxing; the poultices contained warmed, nourishing oils.

My therapist, Georgie, began with a salt scrub on my feet, followed by a light massage on my neck, head and shoulders. Once I was relaxed, she started pressing the hot poultices along my big muscle groups, allowing the heat and the oil to release tension. Then, while my skin was warm, Georgie performed a long massage using body butter. I could feel my tense shoulder knots under her fingers and had to breathe through the pain. It was well worth it; the next day, my shoulders and neck felt loose and pain-free for the first time in weeks.

The next day, I enjoyed a Champneys Ultimate Age Excellence Facial (80 minutes, £90) which also included a foot massage, and a deeply nourishing hand treatment using paraffin wax and heated mitts. Georgie began by using hot stones to massage my neck and shoulders; by the time the facial began, I was well and truly relaxed. A cleansing routine used an ultrasonic machine, while the facial included two face masks, an eye mask, and a facial massage.

The lotions and potions smelled heavenly and were rich enough to make a real difference to my rather tired and dehydrated skin. I looked relaxed and brighter than usual, and the fine lines around my eyes were softer.

Side-by-side pedicures with my spa partner completed two days of luxurious treatments.

The treatment menu at Champneys Tring includes facials, massages, body treatments, and beauty finishing touches using Aromatherapy Associates, Carita, Elemis and Decléor, plus complementary therapies such as Bowen technique, acupuncture and osteopathy. The medical treatments include a physiotherapist and on-site nurse who can change dressings and take out sutures if you are recovering after an op.

The spacious dining room is split-level with upholstered dining chairs and white linen tables. Large French windows let in lots of light. At a club table, you can join other guests. Help yourself from a large self-service buffet area for breakfast and lunch, and enjoy table service for dinner.

At lunch, there is soup, a choice of hot dishes and a selection of bright, colourful and flavourful salads. Desserts are generally light; fruits and yoghurts but with some interesting additions including a lightweight apple crumble and a mango mousse.

Dinner is a little grander; we had excellent fish dishes (salmon, trout, dorado) with sauces that certainly did not taste lightweight but were healthy. Game and poultry are on offer and even some red meat dishes.

Champneys take food intolerances seriously with plenty of gluten-free and lactose-free choices. They will also arrange special diets if you contact them in advance. There is no bar at Champneys Tring but they do offer wine or Prosecco with meals.

We loved

The clever design: Facilities are light and bright, while cosy areas are dark and relaxing.

The smaller relaxation rooms: We loved the water beds and indoor fire.

The grounds: There are formal gardens, woodland walks, bike trails and a meadow, as well as plenty of areas where you can relax in the sunshine.

We didn't love

The occasional queues: People arriving at reception or the restaurant at busy times had to wait in line.

Activity addicts: Champneys Tring offers a wide range of daily classes, from gentle meditation to yoga, from aqua circuits to Zumba.

Anyone serious about their health: Champneys Tring offers sessions with physiotherapists, nurses, nutritionists, physical therapists and doctors. You can use a service called Doctor Now (£125 for a 30-minute face-to-face session) or book in for a three-day retreat focusing on type-2 diabetes. They offer specialised tests including blood tests, food-sensitivity testing, hormone testing and adrenal stress profiles.

Those in need of extra nurturing: Pay extra for a "premier" stay which includes a pre-visit telephone call, and senior therapists overseeing your treatments. You also have a reserved area in the dining room and private section in the treatment waiting room.

We awarded Champneys Tring a Good Spa Guide rating of 5 Bubbles for its stylish upgrade and wide range of facilities and treatments. It's a pleasure to be in the spa with its light, interesting décor and plenty of space.

Sybaritic Spy visited in August 2017 and awarded it 5 Bubbles.