Guerlain Spa at Raffles London

“A fascinating, historic building; luxurious spa thermal facilities; treatments with a difference and impeccable service combine to make Guerlain Spa at Raffles London first class” (Summer Spy)

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Raffles London occupies the Old War Office on Whitehall, directly opposite Horse Guards Parade. This Grade II-listed Edwardian Baroque landmark is imposing and steeped in history: candidate spies for the Special Operations Executive were briefed here, and agents behind ‘Operation Mincemeat’ worked within these walls. Inside, the restored marble Grand Staircase – where Churchill is said to have held his morning briefings – and vast chandeliers set the tone.

Alexandra at main reception checked us in with chilled Champagne and a warm towel, then gave us a tour of the ground floor. Our butler - who had emailed before arrival to ask about our pillow preferences, room temperature and even our robe and slipper sizes - met us already knowing our names and our spa booking.

WHAT'S ON OFFER?

The spa lies below ground, designed by Goddard Littlefair and spread over several floors (27,000 sq ft over four floors, including Pillar Wellbeing). The scent of Guerlain greets you the moment the lift doors open, and it follows you everywhere.

At spa reception – parquet floor, oval gold mirrors, cream leather seating and a backlit wall of Guerlain fragrances – our host Pai swapped our shoes for slippers embossed with the Guerlain bee, presented in individual baskets. Pai brought herbal tea and warm towels, then offered a tray of Guerlain's new L'Heure Bleue Eau de Parfum to spritz on ourselves or our towels. We completed digital consultation forms over our drinks.

The changing rooms on the treatment floor are compact but beautifully kept. Wooden lockers open with a four-digit code of your choice, and inside are deep, cocooning robes with black piping and deep-pile towels. Vanity areas at each end hold GHD hairdryers and straighteners, as well as a full set of extras. A very large shower is stocked with the hotel's own 1906 products. Larger changing rooms sit on the pool level.

Pat had already set up the relaxation room with our chosen drinks before we arrived. Six private chambers hold full-length beds dressed with velvet weighted blankets, pillows and towels; draw the curtains for privacy or leave them open to lie beside a friend. Help yourself to cranberries, coconut chips, nuts, peanut oat protein bars, teas from Camellia's Tea House and cucumber water. Lighting is very low, music very subtle, and nobody hurries you along – our friend fell asleep.

On the lowest level, the double-height pool hall holds a 20-metre pool with a ribbon fire at one end and loungers set into the building's arches, dressed with extra towels, pillows and side tables. Fresh towels are on hand, and butlers will bring any drink you fancy. The vitality pool has sunken seats and timed jets, and the thermal area has a sauna, a steam room and two experience showers. Our only regret? Not arriving earlier to enjoy it all for longer.

On the ground floor, L'Atelier offers express beauty treatments.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR TREATMENT

We tried Reflexology with Andrea Hurst (90 mins, £400).

Described as one of the world's leading reflexologists and a health, and wellbeing visionary, Andrea’s bespoke sessions aim to rebalance the body on physical, emotional and energetic levels. She is currently in residence at the Guerlain Spa.

My session took place in the Royal Spa Suite, probably one of the biggest treatment rooms I have ever seen with a freestanding bath, a shower, a vanity area and a wide treatment bed that moves to any position.

Andrea began with a full history, asking about my general health and any injuries or issues. I lay on the couch while she mapped my feet, then she worked through the various pressure points; I drifted into a very relaxed state.

At the end, Andrea gave me a full overview of what she had felt through my feet and what it suggested about my health and wellbeing. It’s a treatment and a wellbeing assessment in one – personalised, healing and unlike anything I have experienced. Follow-up sessions are available, and I would strongly recommend them.

My spa partner’s Bespoke Massage with Anastasia (60 mins, £220) began with a choice of three fragrances (vanilla, iris or a warming tonka-based scent) before moving into a firm, deep massage with focus on the neck, shoulders and back, plus hip mobility work. She felt the benefit for days afterwards.

SWEET STAY?

We stayed in a Ministerial Suite (approximately 83 m², one of 13) with two queen beds. A window in the lounge looks straight over Horse Guards Parade, and the Changing of the Guard is visible from the bedroom window. An iPad and bedside switches control the TV, lighting and curtains; the bed linen is of the very best quality, and the dressing room has a three-way mirror and a steamer.

The bathroom has underfloor heating, a freestanding shower, a bath and the hotel's own 1906 products in vetiver, sandalwood and neroli, created by London perfumer Azzi Glasser. A well-stocked minibar and a welcome gift of fruit and snacks, at turndown we found a range of Camellia's Tea House teas, fresh flowers and the lights set low.

FOOD FACTS

There is no en-robe dining in the spa so refreshments there are limited to the relaxation room snacks and teas. For juices and light, nutrition-led dishes, Pillar Kitchen & Juice Bar is on the ground floor.

Afternoon tea in The Drawing Room – a historic fireplace, a grand piano and sash windows onto Whitehall – was inspired by Operation Mincemeat, the Second World War deception that later became a film and an award-winning stage musical. Expect a cake shaped like a briefcase, a pastry submarine and a "love letter" nodding to the romance in the story. Our host Olivia told the tale as it wove through every element, and recommended Camellia's Tea House loose-leaf teas to suit our tastes: white tea for our spa partner, black breakfast tea for us, each served with its own tea timer. A glass of Louis Roederer Champagne completed the scene.

Dinner was at Saison, which serves Mediterranean all-day dining under a restored historic glass ceiling. After Champagne on arrival, our starter was a classic prawn cocktail in a high-stemmed glass, topped with three large langoustines and crisp lettuce. Mains were langoustine linguine with a green salad, and filet mignon with mash and spinach. Pear melba with ice cream finished things off. The service was attentive and friendly throughout, with plenty of recommendations to suit our taste and appetite. Dishes were generous in size with the best quality produce used.

WE LOVED…

The suites have to be seen to be believed - waking up to Horse Guards Parade from our Ministerial Suite was an absolute treat.

The anticipation: from robe sizes enquired about in advance to intuitive room controls and an effortless butler service, everything is pre-thought of for you.

The space: for London, the room given to wellness is remarkable – and the 20-metre pool is one every guest should make time to swim in.

Our reflexology session was so very different to most treatments on the menu; Andrea’s expertise would be well worth the investment.

WHAT BUBBLE RATING DID YOU AWARD THIS SPA?

We awarded Raffles London at The OWO a Good Spa Guide Bubble Rating of Five Bubble Luxury for a seamless stay that fully deserves our highest accolade.