Buxton Crescent Health Spa Hotel

First Impressions

Buxton Crescent is a curved honey-hued Georgian terrace set in the centre of the charming Derbyshire spa town of Buxton. Originally the home of the Duchess of Devonshire, a 17-year restoration has given it a new lease of life as a spa hotel run by European spa specialist, Ensana (think huge sash windows with original stained glass and gleaming chandeliers).

Enter through the bathhouse doors next to the hotel to admire the original wooden peat bath placed in the tiled hallway. Hotel guests will follow a more circuitous - but covered - route from the 1^st floor. Once a destination spa, Buxton Crescent can now be used by day guests.

What's on offer?

The spa is laid out over three floors, and offers traditional Roman-style baths with Art Deco tiles below and a smart modern rooftop pool up top. The hotel is built over the Buxton Spring once enjoyed by the Romans and Mary Queen of Scots - now it delivers pure mineral-rich water to the spa’s thermal pool.

As overnight guests, we slipped white robes and flipflops from our room on and ventured down to spa reception with its Ensana and Comfort Zone products on shelves, stylish sofas and oak desks. Day guests will be given a wristband to activate the lockers, where grey robes and flip-flops can be found inside. Help yourself to towels at every turn. Spa hosts take care of you throughout the day, from arrival with a welcome drink to handing your wristband (somewhat reluctantly) back.

Natural light streams into the changing rooms via a glass dome. As well as spacious, solid oak lockers, spa goers will find two private changing cubicles, two vanity stations stocked with Ghd hairdryers and straighteners, spotless loos, and three spacious showers behind glass doors, each with shampoo, conditioner and shower gel.

You’ll find the thermal area on the lower ground floor; at its heart a mosaic-tiled nine-metre-square thermal pool built in the 1850s. Cast-iron columns support a beautiful stained-glass dome allowing you to bathe in dappled blues and greens. Around its edge: cushioned classic wooden loungers and Art Deco tiles.

Next door is a blue-tiled 7.5m relaxation pool; its double-arched ceiling is pricked with star lights and edged with underwater seats for Roman-style gbathing. Pop into the steam room afterwards - large enough for twelve people – followed by the gentler aroma steam room with seats for eight.

The comprehensive thermal suite has a traditional wooden bio-thermal sauna, an infra-red sauna and a traditional Finnish sauna, each with glass doors and comfortably seating around six to eight people. Two curved, mosaic-tiled experience showers sit either side of an ornamental ice fountain – use a combination of the three to cool off. There’s also a bookable salt cave: four recliners placed in a room full of snowy sodium chloride, said to be good for respiration.

There are two relaxation rooms to choose from: one in an atmospherically dark brick-ceilinged cellar room with five mosaic-tiled heated recliners and salt lamps; the other larger with eight wide beds for snoozing.

Don’t snooze for too long though – some time must be spent in the 12-metre rooftop hydro-pool (accessed by stairs or a lift). A glass wall cleverly divides the rectangular indoor pool from the outdoor pool; both have massaging water jet pipes. Drift into one of the two curved bubble-seats or let the powerful waterfall swan pipe pummel your shoulders whilst admiring the views across the Georgian rooftops. On warm days, lay on one of cushioned loungers on the tiny roof terrace. Post-bubble, you can follow the mermaid mural painted by artist Katie Bird down past the cool contemporary Spa Cafe with its outdoor terrace offering more views.

The spa also has a gym, a yoga studio overlooking the café’s terrace, a hair salon, and a mani-pedi suite. And if that wasn’t enough (it is), you’ll find three mud rooms, two mineral baths, an underwater Jet Massage room and a wave balance treatment room on the lower ground floor. Phew.

Tell us about the treatments

We tried two treatments: an Underwater Jet Massage (30mins, £45) and a Signature Wave Balance on the Water Couch (60 mins, £85).

My therapist, Rebecca, met me in the relaxation room and led me to the UK’s only underwater bathroom with a cave-like feel, red brick ceiling and huge bath. Pre-filled, Rebecca left the room so that I could slip in and get comfortable.

Using a hose, Rebecca jetted water in a circular motion onto my left foot and then up my shin to my thigh. She then asked me to turn on my side so she could repeat the process on my neck, shoulders and the back of my legs. The jets act as a pain-free alternative to a sports massage. Left side done, Rebecca moved onto my right before leaving the room so that I could climb out and dry off.

For my next treatment, Rebecca asked me to slip into loose clothing and follow her to another treatment room with burnt orange walls, an original exposed stone block doubling up as a seat and a waterbed, which she helped me onto.

Rebecca began the treatment by creating a wave beneath me, applying pressure to the mattress with her clenched fists to create movement. Using therapeutic rhythms, she progressed to bigger waves to add pressure to my ankles and lower legs. Next up: Rebecca used the cotton sheet placed between me and the mattress to stretch, rock and roll my joints; this painless treatment is a good form of rehabilitation from injury – it also benefits expectant mothers.

Buxton Crescent Spa has 22 treatment rooms offering a range of specialised mud and bath therapies as well as traditional massages, facials and beauty treatments. The CO2 Bath Suites use the Buxton thermal waters mingled with champagne-like oxygen bubbles. Facials and body treatments showcase Comfort Zone, Jennifer Young and Ensana products.

Food facts

Spa guests eat en robe in the Spa Café, with its swish leather dining seats and rooftop terrace for sunnier days. The menu includes light bites (such as super salads with marinated tomatoes), main courses (such as burgers and risottos), and desserts (such as chocolate brownie or cheesecake). All ingredients are locally sourced. Dietary requirements are catered for – make sure you discuss on booking.

We tried a Caesar salad with grilled Scottish salmon, croutons, parmesan and a soft-boiled egg washed down with a glass of sparkling water. Guests on specific packages can enjoy afternoon tea from 3pm.

Overnight guests can dine in the hotel’s elegant Dining Room with its teal palette and curved windows. The menu is elegant British cuisine with seasonal dishes such as oysters, pig’s head Verrine (yep) and canon of lamb.

We began with hearty dishes Wood Pigeon breast and seared Scottish King Scallops. For mains we feasted on whole grilled market fish which - on our visit - was lemon sole (ask for it to be filleted); our spa partner devoured the Free-Range Duck. All four plates were flavoursome and beautifully presented. As tempting as the Orange Mandarin Cheesecake sounded, we couldn’t contemplate dessert.

We loved / We didn't love

We loved

The extensive facilities: from the different indoor and outdoor pools, 13 thermal experiences, and endless steam rooms and saunas, Buxton Crescent has not missed a trick.

The rooftop pool with its town views: so much love, knowledge and thought has gone into the restoration.

The location: the ridiculously beautiful Peak District and quirky Victorian spa town make this a great place to retreat to.

We didn’t love

The spa is well sign-posted but it may take a while to get your bearings across all three floors with their many stairs (although there are lifts too).

The bubbles on the rooftop pool are on a 20-minute timer meaning you could miss them or, as we did, think they are broken.

Who do you think would like it? 

Wellness pilgrims will flock here to wallow in ancient healing spring waters.

Tourists: did we mention that the property sits right in the middle of Buxton?

Water babies: not only does the hotel have three pools (two inside; one out) but two mineral baths and an underwater jet bath.

What bubble rating did you award this spa?

We awarded Buxton Crescent Health Spa Hotel our highest accolade of Five Bubble Luxury for its beautiful historic restoration; additional stylish comforts; spa menu of modern wellness with a Roman twist; natural springs; and nutritious, delicious food.